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Fiberglass question?

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  • Fiberglass question?

    So a lot of the deck screws are stripped out and also the screw hole that hold down the engine cover are trashed. What the best way to rework these situations?
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Interested in this too. For my fuel tank hatch covers and Mack headliner battens I'm planning to add a strip of cloth and resin. For gas tank hatches the cloth and resin will be on the back side. Are what appears to be the engine hatch hinge's screw holes accessible from the back side or will it need to be filled with something?
    C Rhodes
    26' Mackinaw - 1990
    351 Indmar (1990-2006: Great Engine)
    351 PCM (2006 - Current)
    Southport, NC

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    • #3
      I kind of feel like I want to add backing below the support ledges. I have some 5' long plastic but not plastic cutting boards I salvage from an building being refitted. I could rip them down to say 3/4" x 1/2" and glue the in place. That would be more then enough to screw in to..... thoughts?

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      • #4
        If cutting boards, they will be HDPE which nothing will bond to without jumping through hoops. You'll have to screw or bolt the boards in addition to screwing or bolting what ever you are attaching.
        Atlantic City, NJ
        1982 Cuddy, Rebuilt 351 .060 rings, Edelbrock carb

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Ship View Post
          If cutting boards, they will be HDPE which nothing will bond to without jumping through hoops. You'll have to screw or bolt the boards in addition to screwing or bolting what ever you are attaching.
          I suppose you right Ship, I'm thinking counter sink a few holes in the ledge and some 5200 in between, clamp and see what happens. Once the deck lid is attached where's it going to go.

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          • #6
            We used bronze tinnerman clips similar to these,

            https://www.amazon.com/Standard-U-St...080372&sr=8-17


            the ones I bought on Amazon don't show up anymore but should still be available if you google search them.
            Karen
            Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania
            1986 Shamrock H/T with RWC 330 hp PCM, dual hydraulic helm
            1992 Mako 211CC w/Mercury Optimax 175
            3 other smaller OB boats and a trusty old canoe...

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            • #7
              I've used 5200 on starboard to no avail. Water got under it. Later I found out very little will adhere to HDPE . You have to burnish with a propane torch all while not burning it. Then the adhesive has to be compatible with THAT formulation of HDPE.
              Last edited by Ship; 10-12-2021, 07:26 PM.
              Atlantic City, NJ
              1982 Cuddy, Rebuilt 351 .060 rings, Edelbrock carb

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Fisherlady2 View Post
                We used bronze tinnerman clips similar to these,

                https://www.amazon.com/Standard-U-St...080372&sr=8-17


                the ones I bought on Amazon don't show up anymore but should still be available if you google search them.
                I was thinking about this as well. Thanks for the lead.

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                • #9
                  What about SS blind nuts and bolts instead of screws? Pat like you said rip it down, clamp in place place, drill through the deck and cutting board for your guide holes then install blind nuts, reinstall and run your bolts threw. Use blue locative to hold.
                  just a suggestion.
                  Just wishin', and hopen', and dreamin'

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                  • #10
                    I would taper the holes and layer resin-soaked fiberglass cloth until flush with the surrounding area, then fair the repair and apply gelcoat. Drill new holes when the repair has cured.
                    Steve
                    1998 260 Mackinaw Sea Maxx 5.7 HO TBI 12' Klamath w/ 20hp Tohatsu EFI

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