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Need new engine

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  • Quik Fix
    replied
    Will do Steve, thanks.

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  • My My Hey Hey
    replied
    Remove the top. The accelerator pump will come with it. Check for cracks and dry rot on the pump. Put gas in the hole your pump came out of then stick your finger in the hole and push. Your finger acts as the pump and see if fuel comes out of the squirters. If no fuel comes out check the check valve and the holes in the squirters for clogs and sticking.

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  • Quik Fix
    replied
    2 barrel Rochester. I have a bunch, as in 10 or more Holley 4 bbl. Some still wrapped from Hobbs.

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  • My My Hey Hey
    replied
    What carburetor are we talking about?

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  • Quik Fix
    replied
    Fuel pump is good. I took the carb off and sprayed carb cleaner into the inlet. Wouldn't go in. Let it sit overnight with as much as it would hold and it cleared. Cleaner will flow freely now but back on the engine and no gas when I work the throttle.

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  • Pedlyr
    replied
    I have used this gentlemen before, about 3 - 4 years ago. Bought a rebuilt quadrajet still going strong. Not sure if he is still open.
    https://www.b2byellowpages.com/compa...arburetor.html

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  • crhodes
    replied
    Regarding the carb. If there is gas coming from the fuel pump (loosen/disconnect fuel line at carb and verify there is gas) but not getting to the carb it is likely a stuck float. Sometimes you can tap on the carb with a pair of channel locks and the float will break free. (Ask me sometime how I know.)

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  • Quik Fix
    replied
    Got engine all done but no gas in carb. Guess I'll have to rebuild it. That is not something that I am comfortable with but Hobbs is no longer and a new one is $300. Had to make the engine box 8" longer so I glassed the sides and top. Finally something I know how to do. Sanded the cap while waiting for the resin to set up, will paint it tomorrow. Will sand and paint the console/engine box also.

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  • Ship
    commented on 's reply
    Like I said, I've got 2 plus inches hanging out with no problems after 200 hrs or so.

  • Boatsparky
    replied
    Got it. That makes sense. Ive seen the effects of shaft whip due to harmonics on extremely long, very large pump shafts.

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  • Quik Fix
    replied
    Ed and skip, I think with only 1 3/4 ", I'll be OK here.

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  • Ship
    replied
    Back a bunch of years ago, we had a rash of shaft failures that were posted on SBO. No apparent reason was ever given but there was an article posted by someone about harmonic stress. It was from one of the boat guru's site.

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  • Pedlyr
    replied
    Originally posted by Boatsparky View Post
    The 1.75" bt cutless and prop....if there were a problem, what do you imagine it would be, or i guess im asking, how would you know also?
    In my experience any shaft issues shows up in the bearings or the gear. I just put in a new Twin Disc gear in a commercial fishing boat with a 5" shaft because it was misaligned and the Babbit shaft bearing was toast (probably because of the alignment). So if the shaft sticks out to far passed the Cutlass, you can get shaft whip. Usually shaft survives but not the associated components. We dont have any drive shaft bearings besides the Cutlass in Shamrocks.

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  • Ship
    replied
    Harmonic distortion would cause the shaft to fail from metal fatigue. It is why they put pillow blocks on long runs of shafts that have torque on them. It looks like bending or like how the draw a serpent only on very small loops. Or wave lengths on an ocillascope hence the term harmonic.
    Last edited by Ship; 10-31-2020, 07:50 AM.

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  • Quik Fix
    replied
    Originally posted by Boatsparky View Post
    The 1.75" bt cutless and prop....if there were a problem, what do you imagine it would be, or i guess im asking, how would you know also?
    Good question, maybe some vibration?

    Leave a comment:

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