1988 20 open cc challenges

[Mauro]

Hi all,

Well I starting poking around my lil' honey after it sitting in my yard for 2 years. Found some serious issues other than the engine not turning over. Ran fabulous last year, as engine hrs indicator says 460 hrs and if this is original engine I believe it, no ticking at all and purrs (last year that is lol).

Well trying to trace 2 broken white wire last week , initially thought to be to neutral safety switch, found the nss wire to be intact. one lead goes to the solenoid and the other goes through wiring harness where it turns from white to yellow and up to the ignition switch I believe but have not been able to completely pull the dash panel as the wheel is in the way and wiring does not have much play.

Before I start to tear it up, how is the wheel removed?

Well I found some serious issues that will require significantly more effort than I had anticipated.

1) 1 " holes drilled through sides of bulkhead from shaft area bilge to fuel tank compartments, both sides starboard and port. Is this part of design? and to add insult to injury one side appears the approx 3/4 " plywood has rotted away other side is wet plywood.

2) forward engine mounts bolts toed in at an angle (starboard side) and one bolt not totally screwed down (Port side). Angled bolts would suggest damaged string base at hole area I presume.

3) drilled holes everywhere that need filling drilling/tapping for screws (not serious except for water intrusion and damage to wood structural members ugh...

4) repair to rudder mount/structure , new glass, hopefully done correct but not likely. Rudder post does not wobble and appear solid. Horrible caulking on bottom though that doesn't give much confidence.

5) slim crack up the middle of the transom gel coat, heard the hull was manufactured in 2 halves and fused together

6) appears hydraulic pump is upside down and does not protrude above deck, compared to other pics I have seen ?

Does anyone have pictures of their 20 gutted to expose under deck structures/stringers. Would like to know the stringer /structural configuration so I can
guess what need to be replaced and where it is. What is the best way to get to them.

Also will need to repair/replace plywood under gunnel glass around rod holders, it's rotted away.at the exposed holes.

I have some pics will post more later

regards












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[RC65]

Hi Mauro
if you go back to last year aroung the month of july i think i posted my cuddy project which is similar i believe in what you're facing but others can tell you more im sure.
Look up "cap weight on 20'cuddy"
Hopefully you can get some ideas about some items.

[Mauro]

WOW, appears like you had a job there.

Is the last pic a shot of under the gunnel /cap? It is difficult to make it out exactly. Thanks for the clue to the original post. i will look it up.

Regards

[RC65]

Yes a big job!
yes under the gunnels.

[Mauro]

that was a great thread, lots of information, thanks, I was sorry to see the posts end, is there another thread for the rest of the build, I was up to page 11 and it stopped, the thread seem to end prematurely with lots of stuff to be done. Anyway that was really a lot of info to digest. It is very inspiring to see someone take on a project like that.

[RC65]

Well...
life has it's ways of ending things abruptly lol.
I made the decision to stop the restoration process due to having to build a new building for my business.
But im sure someone here can fill in the blanks for you on your project. i think i have some pictures left i can post if needed.

[Mauro]

Richard,
on your first post above the engine mount stringers appear to be resin filled, did you cut the glass cap off and fill with resin? I could not zoom in enough to clearly see them

[RC65]

I'll get back with you shortly Mauro

[Quik Fix]

I have a few bare 20 hulls here. The holes through the stringers to the gas tank compartments are factory. Don't worry about the rotten plywood. Consider it a sacrificial mold for a fiberglass stringer. I replaced a few stringers before I realized it was not necessary. Unless you just want to work on the boat to bring it to like new condition, like Rich did, fix what needs to be fixed and use it. Under the rod holders, 5200 or glass some new wood after cleaning up the area. Etc. JMO, I don't like to make work.

[RC65]

And I'll definitely agree with quick fix also.
Fix what needs fixing and use it.
It will turn into a never ending project if you are like me!

[RC65]

Mauro
i did not fill the beds with resin.
I removed the rotted areas where the original lag bolts had rusted away and where embedded then epoxied in new white oak blocks and used 1708 cloth and epoxy fairing compound to finish it all to be ready for the mounts.

[Mauro]

Thanks guys, those are the kind of tips I need. Saves tons of unnecessary work, time and expense.

Is the decking removeable or does it need to be cut out (noticed lip all around with screw holes) I dont think my deck is screwed along the hull perimeter, I'll check tomorrow for a seam. Don't remember one though.

I want to just get the engine running again before winter and then start on some projects next spring. But the wood replacement/repair would prevent my aim to going fishing next year.

So far I need to or plan on:

1) repair the rod holder areas and also additional holes for outriggers that have the same rot problem. I want to reinforce the outrigger gunnel area with a couple of small knee braces to the hull to take the extra cantilever stress of 18 " outriggers too. Plan on using coosa for that.

2) replace the bumper rail backing as it is totally dry rotted. Not sure I understood the final direction for the screws in Richard's restoration thread. Maybe not as important as some other issues, but fairly straightforward. Richard , what kind of wood did you use, I was thinking mahogany plywood strips, I believe you cut yours 1/4 in thick.

3) Appears the oil pan drain plug (with approx 2 ' drain hose oriented astern) is leaking at the oil pan / 90 deg elbow fitting connection. So I need to plug or re-install drain line and fitting. Which do you guys recommend? Is that drain hose effective draining the oil or is sucking the oil out through the oil fill cover on the valve cover better?

4) Check lights and other circuits and start a wire replacement schedule as wires are brittle and in many cases have deteriorated insulation, too many inline connectors, and just shoddy wiring in general. ie two white wires just hanging above the tranny, one connected to light switch. Not sure about the other yet but it looks like it just goes to the buss bar. Also a black wire with lug just hanging also, ugh... So far it appears all the dash panel switches and gauges are working

5) replace the box seat at the helm with a modern leaning post. So I can have access to the tray below the deck panel. Will need to repair the deck panel as the previous owner cut it at the base of the seat aft side and the plywood also rotted out. I eventually want to put the batteries in that compartment as the definitely hinder access to the engine area. Have you seen anyone do that?

I have purchased a new radio and 9 inch gps/fishfinder, outriggers and have two Big John downriggers from my previous boat (24' Sea Ray) I had on Lake Ontario that need mounting brackets installed.

So my main plans are to catch me some fishes if I get the some of this stuff done.

[Mauro]

oops ... I think the oil was sucked out through the dip stick, memory not so good anymore.

[Mauro]

also, I love the idea to cut out the center of the front engine compartment bulkhead. Provides more engine access which this boat certainly needs

[Mauro]

oops again, saw that idea on your posts in Richard's restoration thread

[RC65]

Mauro
i ripped some strips of treated 1x4 closer to 5/16th
then put #10 stainless steel screws in from the inside then ground the points off on the outside.
Make them long enough so they go all the way through so you are into the thick part of the screw shank.
Purpose is too draw the cap and hull together at the shearline was my thinking.
Only thing in your case is you won't have access to the screw points from under the rubrail.
so be careful with the length of screw!
Actually come to think of it i have a brand new TACO brand rubrail kit i didn't install if you are interested in buying it?
I'll make you a deal!

[Mauro]

Hi Richard, My rub rail is the type with a rope in the middle of it, seem in ok shape , I'll go and look at the backing board to see which way the screws are driven.