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Prop shaft packing question...

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Tony View Post

    Finally a subject i know a little about!
    From personal experience: about 20 yrs ago I changed out the packing and knew nothing about the choices. Went with the sold by the foot, very dry, old school packing, put it in cutting the pieces diagonally and spent the next 2 days trying to slow down the dripping. Either ran too hot or dripped like crazy. On my 20ftr, 1" shaft the size is 1/4". Cant say for yours. Some one sold me some PTFE flax with Syntef packing lube. Night & day. If you're working on the shamrock it can be done on the trailer or in the water. If you don't have them already get a cheap set of picks to aid in removing the old packing. The only reason for the wrenches is to remove the lock nut. The spud nut should be finger loose.
    The Syntef should come with the packing. Apply liberally to the packing before installing. Also, and I know we have been trained on the Shamrock sites, it is suggested NOT to cut the pieces diagonally, BUTT cuts, and stagger the joints. The manufacturer is "Western Pacific Trading" T/F 1 800 944 3501. I took the liberty of talking to the owner 2 yrs ago on the phone and he was extremely knowledgeable. Both methods of cutting will work and have for me. It's just faster to butt cut them than the other way. Several people don't cut at all, just spiral one long piece until full. Haven't tried that yet!
    Finally, I was advised there should be 3 layers, or pieces in the box when full. I could never get more than 2. That said it does not leak and runs cool at all speeds. I use the same procedure on the rudder box and both have been dry since. The biggest part of the job can be to remove the old packing, and make sure you get it all without scarring the tube.
    Tony, thanks for the detailed answer. always good to get intel from others. That is "spud nut should be finger loose" AFTER the lock nut is loosened, right?
    1988 26' cuddy
    1975 20' open
    16' Sandpiper
    14' Certified Fiberglass

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Quik Fix View Post

      Tony, thanks for the detailed answer. always good to get intel from others. That is "spud nut should be finger loose" AFTER the lock nut is loosened, right?
      10-4 It's harder for me to feel resistance from the stuffing when using wrenches on the spud nut. Once the dripping stops with the motor off, I lock down the lock nut and then fire up and run the transmission F & Reverse at idle speed while tied 0n Both sides in my shed. What I'm looking for is no dripping, damp is OK. Next time it gets run up to speed I check again, this time I look for any heat. If none your good to go. :<)
      Enjoy,
      Tony

      1981 20 ft cuddy
      4.3L Chev V-6

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      • #18
        I always thought 1 drip every 10 seconds was right. Now I see where on my 31 it doesn't drip at all and is cool. I have no idea what type packing is in there but I'm pretty sure it is old school. On the 20 and 26 it will drip while running but stop after a few minutes when shut down.
        1988 26' cuddy
        1975 20' open
        16' Sandpiper
        14' Certified Fiberglass

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        • #19
          The one drip every so often was for the old flax packings. They were wax and flax or cotton. They could literally burn up if over tightened.
          Atlantic City, NJ
          1982 Cuddy, Rebuilt 351 .060 rings, Edelbrock carb

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Fisherlady2 View Post
            We did look it over really close once back on the trailer.... no scarf marks, shiny spots or chips/scratches noted and shaft was solid with no marks or play noted. Even better is that today we had her back out for another fishing trip and she ran without a problem, had her up over 26 mph without a shimmy to be felt! There is still more dripping around the packing than there used to be so new packing will be ordered shortly. I am just relieved that it appears we had a temporary external problem and not a major internal one!!
            I would just try to tighten it up a bit first. I dont think you have to repack or ad a ring unless this doesnt work
            '78 20ft Cuddy
            Mercruiser 350 FWC preVortec w/Carb

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            • cw.abeljr
              cw.abeljr commented
              Editing a comment
              I agree, probably only take an 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

          • #21
            Thanks for the great post, Radioman. Your story, and all of the comments that followed will be of help to lots of folks in future...including me! 😀

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            • #22
              Anyone know the thickness of the flax for a 22 Predator? Shaft is not 1-inch diameter.
              Mine is dripping about every other second and does not stop when tightened.
              Kingfisher
              1990 22' PREDATOR INDMAR 5.7 310 HP and ZF 45 C
              Fishineer
              1976 20' OPEN FISHERMAN Ford 302 and B/W 1:1
              Wilmington, NC

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              • Ship
                Ship commented
                Editing a comment
                1-1/4shaft. 1/4" packing. As always oem. After time things change so verify, verify verify. Just to be sure.

            • #23
              Thank you!
              Kingfisher
              1990 22' PREDATOR INDMAR 5.7 310 HP and ZF 45 C
              Fishineer
              1976 20' OPEN FISHERMAN Ford 302 and B/W 1:1
              Wilmington, NC

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