Announcement

Collapse

ONE RULE

Consider this your neighborhood bar,corner soap box, fish house, marina, coffee shop or anywhere else you go to hang out with friends and talk anything you want. Only thing, personal attacks will not be tolerated. No name calling or belittling. Be civil at all times and have fun. If a topic offends you, don't read any further.
See more
See less

Prop shaft packing question...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Prop shaft packing question...

    Some background information first...
    Since taking ownership of our boat, everytime I check the prop shaft packing while underway, I've never seen it dripping and it hasn't even been warm to the touch.

    However, while underway this morning, we heard this sort of thud sound from under the stern of the boat and a mild vibration started at the same time as the thud.
    We immediately throttled down to reduce speed and the vibration lessened with the reduction.

    I took off the transmission step to check the running gear for obvious signs, nothing glaringly obvious except that now, the drive shaft packing was dripping at about 1 drip per second!
    Feeling the packing nut, it wasn't even warm.

    We ran about another mile then shut down the engine to troll with the kicker.
    After we were done trolling, we restarted the engine and ran a few miles back to the launch...
    Now the vibration was gone...even running at top cruising speed...
    The fast drip from the drive shaft packing was now a really slow drip with a slight "spraying" effect where the shaft enters the packing nut...

    I'm not seeing or feeling any excessive play at the trans output shaft or at the cutlass bearing.
    There wasn't any observed slipping of the trans, it seems to shift alright.
    There wasn't any surging or power loss from the engine or transmission.
    After trolling for a bit, there was a large plastic bag seen coming from under the back of the boat - thinking it possibly got caught up in the prop while underway...

    I haven't removed the packing nut to inspect that yet...


    Anyone have any thoughts to share?
    Last edited by radioman; 06-30-2019, 03:11 PM.
    1986 26' HT w/5.7 PCM 330HP RWC

  • #2
    If the packing was old and very dry, when you hit the bag or whatever, you may have caused a portion of the packing to shift, move or even break free. It could have allowed the shaft to move out of alignment till it found center again. Not a great answer but I have had just that happen. When I pulled the packings out some of the rings were segments, not rings anymore. It leaked like a banchee after the strike. It only wobbled for a couple seconds.
    Atlantic City, NJ
    1982 Cuddy, Rebuilt 351 .060 rings, Edelbrock carb

    Comment


    • #3
      Agree with Skip that the bag disrupted everything for a little while. Could have been something solid in the bag that caused the thud. If all is back to normal, pretend it didn't happen.
      1988 26' cuddy
      1975 20' open
      31 Grand Slam
      16' Sandpiper
      14' Certified Fiberglass

      Comment


      • #4
        All is back to normal except the drip rate around the packing. Thank you for the replies and reassurance. Radioman plans to order some packing to redo it since it hasn't been done while we have had the boat anyway... so multiple years old at least. Will advise if any further symptoms crop up.
        Karen
        Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania
        1986 Shamrock H/T with RWC 330 hp PCM, dual hydraulic helm
        1992 Mako 211CC w/Mercury Optimax 175
        3 other smaller OB boats and a trusty old canoe...

        Comment


        • #5
          So, any recommendations...1/4" old school flax or the PTFE stuff?

          1/4" usually the standard size?
          1986 26' HT w/5.7 PCM 330HP RWC

          Comment


          • #6
            I have used them all and if it were me, gortex with teflon
            Atlantic City, NJ
            1982 Cuddy, Rebuilt 351 .060 rings, Edelbrock carb

            Comment


            • #7
              BTW I currently have a dripless and if it weren't so involved, I would go back to the old style with the gortex Teflon.
              Atlantic City, NJ
              1982 Cuddy, Rebuilt 351 .060 rings, Edelbrock carb

              Comment


              • #8
                I concur with the responses you have gotten. If I remember correctly you trailer your boat. If so, crawl under her and inspect your prop, shaft, strut and bottom for any damage or paint scarring that would identify if what you hit was more than just a plastic bag.... sounds like you are ok though.
                Clyde, Pasadena, Maryland
                1985 Shamrock (ROCK SOLID)26 Cuddy Cabin
                2000 Yanmar 4LHDA-STE 230 HP....
                Hurth HSW 630 A1 1.6 1.58 Trolling Valve
                17X17 4 bladed Prop with Light Cup

                Comment


                • #9
                  We did look it over really close once back on the trailer.... no scarf marks, shiny spots or chips/scratches noted and shaft was solid with no marks or play noted. Even better is that today we had her back out for another fishing trip and she ran without a problem, had her up over 26 mph without a shimmy to be felt! There is still more dripping around the packing than there used to be so new packing will be ordered shortly. I am just relieved that it appears we had a temporary external problem and not a major internal one!!
                  Karen
                  Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania
                  1986 Shamrock H/T with RWC 330 hp PCM, dual hydraulic helm
                  1992 Mako 211CC w/Mercury Optimax 175
                  3 other smaller OB boats and a trusty old canoe...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Great news Karen.
                    Clyde, Pasadena, Maryland
                    1985 Shamrock (ROCK SOLID)26 Cuddy Cabin
                    2000 Yanmar 4LHDA-STE 230 HP....
                    Hurth HSW 630 A1 1.6 1.58 Trolling Valve
                    17X17 4 bladed Prop with Light Cup

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thrilled to hear it. I love how sturdy these Shamrocks are.
                      Chip
                      Camden, Delaware

                      1989 Shamrock 20 Cuddy Cabin (Rock Bottom)
                      PCM 302, RWC

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by radioman View Post
                        So, any recommendations...1/4" old school flax or the PTFE stuff?

                        1/4" usually the standard size?
                        Finally a subject i know a little about!
                        From personal experience: about 20 yrs ago I changed out the packing and knew nothing about the choices. Went with the sold by the foot, very dry, old school packing, put it in cutting the pieces diagonally and spent the next 2 days trying to slow down the dripping. Either ran too hot or dripped like crazy. On my 20ftr, 1" shaft the size is 1/4". Cant say for yours. Some one sold me some PTFE flax with Syntef packing lube. Night & day. If you're working on the shamrock it can be done on the trailer or in the water. If you don't have them already get a cheap set of picks to aid in removing the old packing. The only reason for the wrenches is to remove the lock nut. The spud nut should be finger loose.
                        The Syntef should come with the packing. Apply liberally to the packing before installing. Also, and I know we have been trained on the Shamrock sites, it is suggested NOT to cut the pieces diagonally, BUTT cuts, and stagger the joints. The manufacturer is "Western Pacific Trading" T/F 1 800 944 3501. I took the liberty of talking to the owner 2 yrs ago on the phone and he was extremely knowledgeable. Both methods of cutting will work and have for me. It's just faster to butt cut them than the other way. Several people don't cut at all, just spiral one long piece until full. Haven't tried that yet!
                        Finally, I was advised there should be 3 layers, or pieces in the box when full. I could never get more than 2. That said it does not leak and runs cool at all speeds. I use the same procedure on the rudder box and both have been dry since. The biggest part of the job can be to remove the old packing, and make sure you get it all without scarring the tube.
                        Last edited by Tony; 07-01-2019, 02:40 PM.
                        Enjoy,
                        Tony

                        1981 20 ft cuddy
                        4.3L Chev V-6

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Exciting news indeed , good when things fix it self πŸ‘πŸ‘

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Radioman and Karen, Glad to hear it worked out well. Agree with the others the PTFE stuffing works great.

                            On aside note Karen what’s with the orange bars under your profile photo, are you trying to catch up with Ship? LOL!
                            1990 26’ open 351W

                            Comment


                            • Fisherlady2
                              Fisherlady2 commented
                              Editing a comment
                              Saw those showed up Saturday.... maybe something to do with either likes or threads started since I posted up the Erie 2019 thread? And.... I don't think I could ever catch up to Ship, but it's fun trying, lol

                          • #15
                            I have been using Duramax marine packing , sold by the Foot locally , http://www.duramaxmarine.com/

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X