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26 Mackinaw Restoration & Cummins Conversion Project

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  • #61
    Click image for larger version  Name:	A0D4D411-FE0A-44A4-9294-913914BE597E.jpg Views:	3 Size:	3.05 MB ID:	35821 Click image for larger version  Name:	C20CA6B9-0A56-4074-8537-18DAC23CBCE1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.79 MB ID:	35817 Click image for larger version  Name:	9FD41B39-C89B-4227-A6D2-55673E5170CA.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.24 MB ID:	35818 Click image for larger version  Name:	E20BE3C6-99D3-452A-948B-B97E848EF4C0.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.47 MB ID:	35819 Next up was the fish cooker tub. The 5” exhaust takes up more space than the tub allows so I had to do a little cutting Click image for larger version  Name:	A1B00A28-CFFC-47DA-BDC7-F8D110E26B1B.jpg Views:	0 Size:	2.89 MB ID:	35820
    Last edited by SUBH2OHNTR; 09-01-2022, 08:11 PM.

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    • #62
      Looking great ! Reminds me I need to get back to mine. Thanks for sending the hose shroud. Much appreciated.

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      • #63
        Interesting what you did to the exhaust. Since I have a 6BTA, I am really interested in what your experience has been. It appears to be a simple install. Much simpler than has been described by others.
        1988 26' cuddy
        1975 20' open
        16' Sandpiper
        14' Certified Fiberglass

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        • #64
          Very nice! I have diesel envy.
          Steve
          1998 260 Mackinaw Sea Maxx 5.7 HO TBI 12' Klamath w/ 20hp Tohatsu EFI

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          • #65
            Originally posted by Quik Fix View Post
            Interesting what you did to the exhaust. Since I have a 6BTA, I am really interested in what your experience has been. It appears to be a simple install. Much simpler than has been described by others.
            It hasn’t been bad so far. I was lucky enough to have my brothers factory diesel boat sitting next to mine for the engine mount locations. The first boat I bought had the engine in the wrong location, they reused the rear trans mounting pads and fabricated aluminum front mount perch’s. The engine was about 12”-15” too far forward. This caused the boat to be a bit nose heavy. It was so far forward they had cut a hole in the bulkhead for the balancer to clear it. There was no place for the batteries cause on the diesel boats they sit in front of the engine on a shelf that spans the engine beds. They had the batteries in the head also making the boat nose heavy. When you’re doing a full gut and rebuild like I have it’s not that bad to convert to diesel but if you had a perfect running boat that didn’t need a refit it would be a bit of work. I think the shaft was the same length. The trans mounts moved back about 7” if I remember but the 1:1 is shorter that the reduction gear so I’m pretty sure it was the same. Mine was shot in the cutlass area but I’ll be able to use the one out of the other boat, it’s in perfect condition I just have to have it cut and rekeyed.

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            • #66
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ID:	35838 I want to keep large amounts of water out of the fish cooker and being a diesel I wanted to keep the hatch’s from rattling so I hinged them and added latch’s. I haven’t installed gaskets yet but I will. I also removed the piece of steel pipe they had glassed to the bottom of the floor panel and glassed in a new Coosa support. Click image for larger version

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              • TK26HT
                TK26HT commented
                Editing a comment
                This is amazing so far! What did you use for hinges and what do you plan on using for gaskets? I like this idea and want to do it

              • SUBH2OHNTR
                SUBH2OHNTR commented
                Editing a comment
                I just used a piece of stainless piano hinge. I haven’t decided on a gasket yet, I’m still trying to figure out what will work best

            • #67
              Originally posted by DaveR View Post
              Looking great ! Reminds me I need to get back to mine. Thanks for sending the hose shroud. Much appreciated.
              You’re welcome. The shipping was about 15$ I’m not too worried about it just pay the favor forward.

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              • #68
                So I had planned on taking the original windows apart, having the frames sandblasted and powdercoated then reassemble with new slides fuzz and gaskets. Once torn down I found them to be very corroded. I also could not find replacement parts at all. The fuzz was no problem but the plastic insert for the bottom of the track was non existent. I started adding up my labor to do a little welding and metal finishing to take care of the corroded areas plus all the other cost involved and trying to make some kind of slide work I decided to spend the money on new windows. I changed a few things one was the back of the window had the top corner 45’ed and that limited how far the window would slide back considerably. I eliminated this on the new windows. I also squared up the openings which never looked bad when the boat was together but we’re clearly a mess when you started drawing lines and the fabricator wanted templates made within a 1/16 of the actual hole
                Last edited by SUBH2OHNTR; 10-02-2022, 03:46 PM.

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                • #69
                  The swim platform was also a little short for my liking. I had my buddy that builds T-Tops and towers and dive ladders look at it and he also felt it could stand to be a bit bigger to get a nice custom staircase ladder to function properly. I decided to stretch it 8” and it greatly improved the strength as well. Once the bottom was glassed I glued a 1/4” of pvc to the bottom and shaped it so when I glassed the top I could roll it down and use that 1/4” as a mold of sorts to give me the factory style lip

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                  • #70
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ID:	36023 Top glassed, lip trimmed and pvc removed Click image for larger version

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                    • #71
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                      Last edited by SUBH2OHNTR; 10-02-2022, 04:09 PM.

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                      • SUBH2OHNTR
                        SUBH2OHNTR commented
                        Editing a comment
                        I also sprayed a coat of white Gel on the top to seal up the work and act as a good base for the primer and paint

                    • #72
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ID:	36034 I also added a center bolt flange because the ladder will probably end up dead center and there was a big span with no bolts

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                      • #73
                        Ladder may end up something like this but not quite sure till I mount the platform. I don’t want it to stick up much higher than the rear transom cap. We may have to make it hinge in the center Click image for larger version  Name:	42395C6B-C3F0-4E34-A00C-9A074F3DF009.png Views:	4 Size:	273.2 KB ID:	36040
                        Last edited by SUBH2OHNTR; 10-02-2022, 07:08 PM.

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                        • #74
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ID:	36044 We had the bottoms stripped next. There was an easy 1/8” of paint or better on both of em Click image for larger version

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                          • #75
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ID:	36046 Now it was time to get the bilge ready for paint. I also glassed in some panels/bulkheads to mount Battery switch, fuel tank selector valves, fuel filters, fresh water and wash down pumps. I also enlarged and glassed all the fuel tank compartment drain holes

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