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Lep's pictures & Engine bed rebuild

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  • Lep's pictures & Engine bed rebuild

    Does anyone have pictures from Lep's Engine thread? I know there were some issues when the site/s moved from Fishtheclassic a few years back. I'm not finding anything in searches.

    I spent all day yesterday removing rotted engine beds on my 20' and am wondering if I'll go back with the fir 4x8 that was original or go the chopped matt and epoxy rte. that Lep described. I would love to see what he did, visually. The amount of epoxy needed to create that large of a bed would be costly! Anyone know if he made smaller block or same size as what was there? Also, it would be awesome to see what the ratio, and how fine/rough he chopped the matt, to amount of epoxy. Hard to tell by his entertaining documentary without seeing pics.

    I was pleasantly surprised to see there was absolutely no adhesive or mechanical fasteners holding the beds in place, just the fiberglass skin. Wondering what others have done when they re-installed new beds, please share your experiences if you would, much appreciated!
    Thanks,
    Pete
    Last edited by flatrock; 05-03-2021, 09:59 AM.
    1986 20' Openfish PCM 302 RWC
    Marblehead, MA

  • #2
    Uggh, sorry folks, I meant to also post this on Shamrockboatownersclub but did it twice here by mistake I'll try to delete one.
    Last edited by flatrock; 05-02-2021, 02:48 PM.
    1986 20' Openfish PCM 302 RWC
    Marblehead, MA

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    • #3
      Oak not fur and Lep and Freddy filled the rotten bolt holes, didn't make beds.
      1988 26' cuddy
      1975 20' open
      16' Sandpiper
      14' Certified Fiberglass

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      • #4
        https://forum.classicshamrock.net/fo...tringers/page2
        '78 20ft Cuddy
        Mercruiser 350 FWC preVortec w/Carb

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        • #5
          Thanks for the info! I guess I misunderstood his description. Now that I see the pics I realize that situation was different than what I am dealing with. I removed the entire engine bed, rotten beyond patching or filling. I thought maybe they had made a form and cast in a solid epoxy bed, instead of replacing the wood. I'll cut in another bed with fur, penetrate it with epoxy and bond that to hull, then glass it over. I don't like the way epoxies works with oak, I think fir is the way to go if you find old growth.
          Last edited by flatrock; 05-03-2021, 09:58 AM.
          1986 20' Openfish PCM 302 RWC
          Marblehead, MA

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          • #6
            These guy's have good prices on epoxy-
            Wholesale/retail sales of composite and fiberglass materials, including epoxy, adhesives, carbon fibers, urethane foam, urethane casting rubbers

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            • #7
              And for sealer these guys have good prices but it looks like most is out of stock! Might have to make your own with epoxy and acetone. Douglass Fir is what was used in alot of stringer and engine mounts
              The Rot Doctor’s secure online shopping page. Here we list all the products that we carry where you can add items to your cart. All items include options, sizes, pricing and availability.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by gary s View Post
                These guy's have good prices on epoxy-
                Thanks Gary, heck of a lot less expensive than west system! And they have good prices for cloth, great!
                1986 20' Openfish PCM 302 RWC
                Marblehead, MA

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                • #9
                  Here's where were at...

                  After doing core sample of the engine beds I discovered the rot. My initial hope was to drill out the existing lag holes to an inch diameter and fill with an epoxy and microfiber mix. Plan quickly changed as I drilled into a sponge. So I cut the glass off with a grinding wheel and saw it needed replacement. I figured there would be some kind of fasters or advisee holding in the fur bed, but found nothing. Made it much easier to remove, but don't think it was easy! Took about 4 hours.

                  Once out I notice a bit of weapage at the base of the stringer, so I opened up the deck hatch to inspect. Well, plans changed again. Foam was drenched so I cut an access panel out and began the fun process of removing the foam. I'm about halfway done with the starboard side and the first bag of foam weighs pretty close to 90 pounds. I'm working my way forward from there, hoping to hit a bulkhead soon! Anyone know where the bulkheads/deck supports are situated in the forward half of the 20's? Is there also foam in the frontmost compartment? I assume there is.



                  https://flatrockstudios.com/ftc/rot.mov (this shows rotten stringer)

                  https://flatrockstudios.com/ftc/foam.mov (this shows the water in the foam)





                  1986 20' Openfish PCM 302 RWC
                  Marblehead, MA

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                  • #10
                    hey flatrockI feel for yah

                    Where was the water seeping out of? Is there a limber hole into the engine bed ? Sounds like it was coming from the side compartment forward of the fuel tank compartment, but where was it coming out?

                    I have an '88 20 open and am currently cleaning out the engine bay around and under the engine and I noticed that a couple of engine mount lag bolts are toed in at an angle ( small angle, but still not vertical). Will check if they are in solidly next time I'm in the boat

                    How long are the lag bolts ? Mine are stainless , are yours?

                    So I may need to go a similar route as you concerning the engine bed.

                    I am curious how water got in the side compartment and where is it seeping out. In my ignorance I thought it was sealed. I may have same problem as there are numerous screw holes in my deck. was hoping to just fill them in with epoxy but that may change.

                    good luck

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                    • #11
                      No bulkhead outboard of the stringer and foam all the way forward.
                      1988 26' cuddy
                      1975 20' open
                      16' Sandpiper
                      14' Certified Fiberglass

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Quik Fix View Post
                        No bulkhead outboard of the stringer and foam all the way forward.
                        Yep, found that out by digging forward, never hit anything but foam. So, I had to cut another access panel further forward, and will do on more all the way forward if needed. So far I have weighed the bags of foam removed, 154 pounds, and there is still at least one bags worth left to go! Then on to the port side.... but now that I know the layout I'll cut smarter access panels.
                        1986 20' Openfish PCM 302 RWC
                        Marblehead, MA

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                        • #13
                          Mauro After I removed the engine bed, there was a very small crack in the glass behind it where the stringer meets the hull, that's where I saw the first sign of water.

                          There are no weep holes in the forward sections, just the ones for the fuel tanks in the stern section. I assume Shamrock meant these to be water tight compartments, filled with foam for safety floatation as well as structural support for the deck. I'm going to investigate ways of adding structure there in place of foam. I may just cut out the forward deck sections all together and glass in a series of bulkheads with Coosa board or marine ply and re-deck it.

                          As far as how water got in, I see definite flaws with the console being screwed down, as well the hinges for the front seat/engine cover were not bedded properly. Lastly the T-top is through bolted and once I got access to look at the backing plates, it appears that was also leaking. I will redo all of that.

                          The lags I took out of the beds were not stainless, and about 5". A couple pulled right out as they were lagged in to, basically mulch.
                          Last edited by flatrock; 05-03-2021, 06:09 PM.
                          1986 20' Openfish PCM 302 RWC
                          Marblehead, MA

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                          • #14
                            I gained about 5 mph after i removed the old wet foam from my 26. Hope you notice similar improvement!

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                            • #15
                              You can't seal a screw hole. Water WILL get in, give it a way OUT.
                              1988 26' cuddy
                              1975 20' open
                              16' Sandpiper
                              14' Certified Fiberglass

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