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Working with lead paint

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  • Working with lead paint

    I'm redoing an old structure that has some leas paint in it. The paint on the outside is pealing so bad that you can see 50% if the wood. My immediate issue is with the trim inside. Some of it needs light sanding and some of it needs heavy paint removal. I am looking for suggestions on how to do that safely and what to use to repaint 95% of the trim has been removed. The windows will also need to be done in the not so distant future.
    Another thing I am looking for is any tooling that someone might have where they did q project like this and might want to sell. Thanks
    1980 pilot house 351
    1988 260 predator 408

  • #2
    I bought an old house early on in my marriage. It had lead paint all over it and I had little kids. I bought a good respirator, 3M, and burned and scraped for months. If I had to do it again, I'd buy new molding and or siding. BTW, I was a project supervisor for a historic restoration on the CG base on Sandy Hook. The historic commission required we remove the paint with paint remover. We resorted to burning it off because the remover took forever and did a crappy job. The workers had hazmat suites on for all of that. When they added more buildings we took the siding off and bought new.
    Atlantic City, NJ
    1982 Cuddy, Rebuilt 351 .060 rings, Edelbrock carb

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    • #3
      Have you seen the price of lumber Ship. It would be cheaper to have some organ failure. Is the paint remover or burning it safer than sanding? Thanks
      1980 pilot house 351
      1988 260 predator 408

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      • #4
        Prices are insane right now.....economy is fantastic.
        Possibly, wait 6 months, prices will drop. But...will the customers be there?

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        • #5
          I would opt for paint remover before sanding to reduce the amount of particles in the air.... but you may want to check for non wood moulding. They now make some out of plastic like material which can be cut like wood. I know wood prices are insane so now the wood substitutes which used to be cost prohibitive are looking more and more reasonable, especially if you add in the time spent on paint removal and the cost in the materials needed to do it.
          Karen
          Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania
          1986 Shamrock H/T with RWC 330 hp PCM, dual hydraulic helm
          1992 Mako 211CC w/Mercury Optimax 175
          3 other smaller OB boats and a trusty old canoe...

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          • #6
            Originally posted by My My Hey Hey View Post
            Have you seen the price of lumber Ship. It would be cheaper to have some organ failure. Is the paint remover or burning it safer than sanding? Thanks
            no burning is dangerous to building and you. just faster by a lot. depending on the paint, discs and belts clog pretty fast and only flat surfaces. burning allows contours to be scraped. Pear, square, triangle and custom contour scrappers are available. just protect yourself from dust and gases no matter which method. you need to light sand after burning too but mostly to clean the surface smooth. also dont think just wood now. many alternate products are out there cheaper and stable over long periods of time.
            Atlantic City, NJ
            1982 Cuddy, Rebuilt 351 .060 rings, Edelbrock carb

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            • #7
              I'm for replacing everything you can with the cheap foam stuff. Looks good when it is up and lasts forever.
              1988 26' cuddy
              1975 20' open
              16' Sandpiper
              14' Certified Fiberglass

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              • #8
                With the new EPA regs that went in over a year ago removing methylene chloride, the new formula paint removers leave alot to be desired. When you say 95% of the trim has been removed do you mean 95% of the paint has been removed or 95% of the trim is taken down? If taken down can you take it somewhere and have someone else remove the paint cost effectively?
                It's just like when low flush toilets were introduced,3 flushes really saved water over the old ones- it took time until the manufacturers finally figured it out. I can't even get this new stuff to remove paint off of metal which used to be easy.
                Last edited by gary s; 11-19-2020, 01:03 PM.

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                • #9
                  This is like the old question 'should I sand (scrape) off the old bottom paint from my rig or have a sandblaster do it"? Having done this both ways, choice number two comes up the winner. You never win trying to save the old unless you are on one of those HGTV channels where labor does not matter. The old will never look new again. Put your labor to good use and go with the Azek.

                  regards Holty

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                  • #10
                    I love azek. What quality are you going for? A fish camp or Dianes house? Azek or cheap foam. Go the the local Home Depot in the morning and get a few cheap laborers. Let them breath the lead.
                    1988 26' cuddy
                    1975 20' open
                    16' Sandpiper
                    14' Certified Fiberglass

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                    • #11
                      I bought my colonial style house in 1994 with all wood including the trim and windows. So front was cedar clapboard and rest was white cedar shingles. Lots of brickmolding, wooden stools etc. House was 25 years old and in good shape, about 2,000 sq/ ft with a 32 ft frontage. But its damp here and I started to get some peeling paint and minor rot. Just everyday oil based paint was on the trim and rest was stained.

                      At first I sanded and painted everything. I took sashes out of the frames, rebuilt the wood frames where needed. Then I removed all the glazing and glass, sanded the sashes/ munions, and repointed and reglazed. Reinstalled about 8 windows this way. Repainted/ stained the house.

                      I got about 3 or 4 years. Shingles started peeling, windows too. Bad. Since then its vinyl windows and Azek for me. Replaced front clapboard with pre-colored cement board. Let the shingles go natural after replacing.

                      Best thing I ever did 22 windows later. Sill kept the colonial look without the headache. House is much tighter and warmer. Cleaning is easier. I'm sure materials are expensive. If you want to wait then I would just try to cover up what you can and tough it out. But I'm glad I did what I did. Just my 2 cents
                      '78 20ft Cuddy
                      Mercruiser 350 FWC preVortec w/Carb

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                      • #12
                        Vinyl windows and Azek all the way!
                        Unless...the local Hysterical Society gets involved..

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                        • #13
                          I'm going to be doing a bunch of molding, facias, soffits at my house. I'm going with Royal pvc product line in my house. Cheaper than Azec and wood.....at the moment. This will all change of course when Beijing Biden takes over. Plus, I hate painting......even the bottom of my boat!

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                          • #14
                            After reading this thread, I should be dead.... In addition to houses, used to work on old wooden boats...
                            C Rhodes
                            26' Mackinaw - 1990
                            351 Indmar (1990-2006: Great Engine)
                            351 PCM (2006 - Current)
                            Southport, NC

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                            • #15
                              Same with playing mercury. How fun was that! Hell, I still play with the stuff from old stats I rip off walls.

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